The Lake of a Thousand Islands

A phenomenon of recent creation, the Lake of a Thousand Islands is so unassuming that it remains unmarked on the great map of China - or most guide books for that matter. Hidden away in the Eastern reaches of Zhejiang province, the Lake of a Thousand Islands is overshadowed by the neighbouring city of Hangzhou, one of China's premiere tourist attractions. While one of China's oldest tourist blurbs - 'in heaven there is paradise, on earth Suzhou and Hangzhou' - may have been an accurate reflection of these cities a century ago, years of heavy tourism have slowly changed the face of their beauty. These destinations remain a must-see for those wanting to visit famous Chinese water scenes, but for those seeking something closer to the word 'paradise' as it is understood as a Western concept, the Lake of a Thousand Islands offers a much more apt alternative.

An idyllic picture of blue water and green isles, the Lake of a Thousand Islands is a respite for travellers weary of overly iconic scenic attractions; a refuge for those wanting to escape overcrowded and polluted city centres; a retreat for those needing to recuperate from their 'china experience'; and a recreational resort for those wishing to revive the body and revitalise the soul. For those new to country, the lake is an interesting example of the emergence of leisure tourism in China. With a population of a mere 45,000, the small township that borders the lake feels more like one big lakeside resort than a town. A large selection of first-class accommodation affords more discerning visitors the opportunity to stay on a private lake and enjoy an undisturbed spot of sun and stretch of water. For the more adventurous, the lake sports the largest recreational water centre in eastern China, and is the perfect place to indulge the inner-child and try out a whole raft of water-sports for much less than it would cost in most Western countries. The Lake of a Thousand Islands vicinity encompasses many qualities comparable with internationally renowned resort destinations, but the undeniable advantage it has over such overseas rivals is that it is conveniently located within the Chinese borders.

Located in Chun'an County, the Lake of a Thousand Islands lies 140 kilometres southwest of Hangzhou, along the old shipping route of the Qiang-Fuchen-Xian'an Rivers. The lake is in fact a reservoir formed by the completed construction of the Xin'an River Hydroelectric Power Station in 1959. The transformation of a mountainous valley into a picturesque scene of pristine water and secluded islands was an inadvertent by-product of economic development and engineering achievement. The region has subsequently become China's largest state forest park, spanning almost 1,000 square kilometres. Today, the Lake of a Thousand Islands can be considered a natural scenic beauty in its own right - a modern ecological haven of native flora and fauna.

Recognised by the tourism industry as a 'bright pearl on the golden tourist line' connecting the famous Yellow Mountain of southern Anhui province and the West Lake of northern Zhejiang province, the Lake of a Thousand Islands more than holds its own against its famous neighbours. From an elevated vantage point, the view of the lake and surrounding region feels like a surreal scene stolen from an ancient Chinese scroll painting - dark isles rising from the mists of the waters blend into a backdrop of mountain ranges that fade into a distant skyline. Under a clear sky, however, no watercolour can do justice to the emerald green and gold of the islands mirrored in a luminous expanse of clear blue water. From above, the islands look like lazy turtles drifting in a pool of heavenly water; from below, touring on the waters of the lake is like holidaying inside a beautiful picture.

The name 'Lake of a Thousand Islands' evokes imagery of a thousand scenes, and this is a fair representation of the ever-changing waters of the lake. The spirit of the lake changes with the seasons, reflecting the mood of the heavens above. At dawn the lake sleeps under a light blanket of mist; at noon sparkles of diamonds and gold shimmer through iridescent waters; and at dusk brilliant rays of gold and red spill across a lake of fire as the sun retreats beyond the dark shadows of the mountain peaks. In autumn, the hills are dyed with yellows and burnt orange, the rich gold clay of the shorelines melting into a depth of dark blue. In winter, jagged ice sculptures overhang the lake and the islands form a chain of white across the water. In spring, a scene of blossom is unveiled to reveal a picture of red, pink and white splashed against a backdrop of aqua waterways. In summer, the pristine waters are cool and inviting beneath the puffs of white cloud and blue sky.

The pure waters of the lake flow directly from the Alpine peaks of the northern Yellow Mountain range. This fact, coupled with the reservoirs relative youth and the region's sparse population have protected the lake thus far from the fates of more famous Chinese lakes such as the West Lake in Hangzhou and Lake Taihu of Jiangsu province. Today, the reservoir is considered one of China's cleanest water supplies and boasts the country's largest scale water production facility, with Nongfu Spring water drawn and distilled from the waters of the lake. The 17.8 million cubic meters of freshwater are breeding ground to an abundance of fish and aquatic life. Not surprisingly, the fresh fish on the local menu is among the best on offer in China. The environment bordering the lake is also lush with vegetation and wildlife, and the rate of green ground coverage is six times the state average. The Lake of a Thousand Islands area nurtures more than 1,700 types of plant life and the atmosphere is pure and clean - a literal breath of fresh air. The breeze that drifts lazily across the waters of the lake carries the fragrance of osmanthus and wisteria. The perfumed wind is a sensual reminder of the beautiful expanse of native flora that grows unrestrained across the region.

The Lake of a Thousand Islands cannot be dismissed as simply an area of scenic splendor. The serene landscape above the water's surface belies the historical wonders hidden within its blue depths. Submerged beneath the water rests a unique archaeological treasure. The 1,800 year-old remains of an ancient Chinese city can be found in the mysterious underwater world of the lake - an Atlantis of the east. The story of a city abandoned to a watery grave forms the heritage of the region and survives in the folk culture of the relocated residents. The city walls and architecture have remained preserved under the water for the last fifty years, and prevail as some of the most substantial sunken artifacts in the world. 

The impressive beauty of China's mountains and lakes have been idealized and romanticized by scholars and artists for centuries. It is almost impossible to appreciate such scenery without feeling the presence of a legacy that spans millennia. In a country as ancient as China it is rare to find a place that feels fresh and undiscovered by millions of feet before you. The paradise of water and islands that is the Lake of a Thousand Islands is such a rarity. A retreat that remains hidden from the masses, the sanctuary of the lake is almost too good to be true.